‘You’re so hot let’s do it now.’ So we threw some food together, and started up, me thinking this guy is nuttier than a fruitcake. “He came along searching for me one morning, and said, ‘Warren Harding?’ ‘Yeah,’ I said, and he said, ‘Let’s go climbing, do the buttress.’ ‘Sure, let’s do it,’ I said, and turned over to go back to sleep. “We did it very impromptu,” Harding said in an interview on Climbing. His first major wall was the north buttress of Middle Cathedral Spire, he climbed it with a stranger named Frank Tarver. Photographer Galen Rowell, a climbing partner of Harding’s, told the paper: “He was known for two things: his incredible endurance and his ability to hold alcohol.” He wrote the book Downward Bound: A Mad! Guide to Rock Climbing. His nickname referred to his ability to find unusual places to hang his hammock on the wall and for developing bat hooks to hang on to small bits of granite. Harding was born in Oakland, grew up in Yuba County and worked as state surveyor. 18, Harding and Caldwell pulled themselves onto the summit, ending their 27-day first ascent of the historic Dawn Wall.Īt the top, media and family members greeted the pair with a meal of fried chicken, fruit, cheese and bottles of champagne and brandy. It read: “A rescue is unwarranted, unwanted and will not be accepted.”
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